Madrid After Dark

Madrid runs on a clock the rest of Europe gave up on. Dinner starts when other cities are closing the kitchen, the bars fill after midnight, and the streets stay busy until the Metro reopens. If you only see it by day, you have seen the wrong city.

After dark is also when its history gets interesting. The same squares that hold tourists at noon staged public executions and Inquisition trials, and the old Austrias quarter hides the murders and legends the guidebooks skip. Our Madrid picks run the full range: ghost and true-crime walks, the longest-running pub crawls in the city, a real flamenco tablao over wine and tapas, and the landmarks lit for their best hour.

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